Jeju Island lies 51 miles south of the South Korean mainland and is the country’s largest island. Only 45 miles long and less than half that wide, Jeju is home to a staggering 368 volcanoes. They’re all considered satellite volcanoes of the giant that dominates the center of the island, Mt. Hallasan, which last erupted more than a thousand years ago. They’re all quiet now, but it’s interesting that wherever you go on the island you can look around and see several volcanoes. If you don’t believe me, go to Google Maps and select terrain view. Zoom in on the island and look at all those pimples sticking up. Those are volcanoes.
We had intended to see the lava tubes here, as they are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but they were closed due to some rock falls, so we diverted instead to a museum that was fascinating in its own right and opened a window into the unique Jeju culture. The Haenyeo Museum , located on the island’s east side, tells the extraordinary story of the women who dive into the ocean without oxygen to harvest seaweed, conches and abalones. It’s hard work, and risky, but for many years it was the primary source of income on the island. Why it’s done by women is a long and fascinating story, too long for this blog. Look it up if you’re interested. All I can say is, hats off to them.
Haenyeo diving is still the third ranking element of Jeju’s economy, behind tourism (10 million visitors a year on an island with a population of less than 700,000) and surprisingly, tangerines. Tangerines have become big business here and you can buy tangerine hats at most souvenir shops. Not everything grows here due to the volcanic soil that soaks up all the rain that falls, due to its porous nature. In fact, there isn’t a single river on the island for that very reason.
Continuing on to the easternmost tip of the island, we arrived at another UNESCO World Heritage Site, Sunrise Peak. This dramatic volcanic peak juts almost straight up at the ocean’s edge, and the views from the top are spectacular. That is, of course, if you’re willing to make the climb of more than 450 steps, which doesn’t count the path up to the start of the steps. I was pretty sweaty by the time we reached the summit, but we got there without difficulty, and spent several minutes looking down at the cone, snapping photos, and enjoying the views. The people of Jeju hold a sunrise ceremony here on the first day of the new year, and the mountain holds special significance for them. We shared the climb and descent with a zillion Jeju high school students, for whom this is part of their educational curriculum.
Departing the island’s east coast, we traveled back to Jeju City, where we were docked, to enjoy a traditional Jeju lunch at a local restaurant. Before I describe the lunch, let me add that Jeju City is home to 486,000 residents out of the island’s total population of 687,000, my point being that once you get out of the city the island is pretty rural.
Lunch was served family style, with several small bowls of foods on the table that I mostly couldn’t identify. There was also a gas burner built into the tabletop of our table for four, with a large shallow pot on it containing several vegetables, raw, thinly sliced beef, and a broth of some sort. When we sat down our server turned on the gas and we watched the contents cook. When it was done we had a hearty meal of beef, vegetables and soup, along with whatever sides we wanted from the selection of small bowls on the table. Mostly I picked at those, because I’m allergic to shellfish and had no idea what they were. I should also mention that we each got a small pot of sticky rice, and I surprised myself at my ability to eat it with chopsticks.
After lunch it was back to the ship, where we arrived a little after 2:00 pm. That seems early, but we had to be onboard by 2:30, with a departure time of 3:00 in order to make it to Seoul tomorrow. Yep, tomorrow we’ll be in the South Korean capital, and I couldn’t be more excited.
A final word on Jeju Island, though. I can’t say I was particularly looking forward to this stop in advance, but in retrospect I’m really glad we came. Jeju is different from the rest of South Korea, so different that it has its own culture, its own language (designated as critically endangered by UNESCO), and is even allowed to independently govern itself. Most Americans have never heard of Jeju, of its amazing women divers, or of its unique language and culture. I certainly hadn’t, but I consider myself all the richer for having seen and experienced it on our way to Seoul. In many ways it’s these unexpected jewels that are making this trip so special.
Oh, one more thing. If you ever do visit South Korea, good luck spotting a Japanese car on the roads. Can you guess why?
As I said, on to Seoul tomorrow. Back then, friends. Thanks for following along.
Fascinating museum dedicated to the Haenyeo, the remarkable women who dive without oxygen to harvest seaweed, conches and abelones.
Neat wire sculpture in the lobby.
Great old black and white photo of the women divers.
This is a typical raft that the women would use to get out to their diving location.
There were some terrific displays in the museum. Note the lava stones used to build the walls. The island has 368 volcanoes.
On to Sunrise Peak, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Yes, Scot, it’s up there. We’re going to climb up to the peak.
It’s not a rest stop, honest. Just pausing to take a photo.
Look at all those steps. It better be worth it when we get to the top.
It was worth it. What a view.
Sunrise Peak is a volcano. That’s the crater.
Another view from the top.
Great views on the way down too.
That’s where the women divers sell their harvest.
Yes, I was up there, and it was great.
Tangerine hats for sale at a gift shop at the base of the peak. We saw these for sale in other places too. After tourism, tangerines are second in economic importance on the island.
Lots of lava sculptures for sale too.
The side dishes on our table.
Just before our server turned on the burner to cook our lunch. That’s raw beef in the middle.
And this is how it turned out. Fantastic!
Back in the cruise ship terminal. Can’t resist taking photos of these vending machines.
Finally, for my Central Pennsylvania friends, have you ever seen these Hershey’s products before? I certainly hadn’t. If you’re interested in trying either of them, all you have to do is hop a plane to Jeju Island. They’re in the gift shop in the cruise port terminal.
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