Today found us on the small Danish island of Bornholm, home to fewer than 40,000 people. But while Bornholm may be small it occupies a strategic location near the mouth of the Baltic Sea, so of course it has been fought over for centuries, usually between the Swedes and the Danes. Not surprisingly, one of the largest fortresses in Europe sits on Bornholm, and we booked a tour that would take us there, as well as to a couple small coastal villages.
We docked early this morning in Rønne, the island’s largest town, where around a third of the population lives, and some distance from the stops on our tour’s itinerary. That was actually a good thing, because it gave us a chance to see the countryside as we made our way to our three scheduled destinations.
The first of those destinations was Hammershus, the ruins of Scandinavia’s largest medieval fortress, perched high atop the northernmost tip of the island. The view from the fortress is incredible, at least looking north across the Baltic Sea, where Sweden is clearly visible on the horizon. Indeed, Bornholm is a good deal closer to Sweden than it is to Denmark, which goes a long way toward explaining why the Danes wanted a big fortress there. Hammershus was started in 1150, took 130 years to complete, and saw heavy use until it was abandoned in 1743 and partially demolished a few years later. Happily, what remained has been preserved and restoration work is ongoing.
Our second stop was only a short distance away in the village of Sandvig, where the purpose of our visit couldn’t have been more different. It was an ice cream shop, right on the water, where we were treated to two huge scoops of the flavors of our choice. I opted for coconut, and enjoyed every spoonful as I admired the view of the Baltic from the shop’s deck.
Our final stop was in the pretty fishing and tourist village of Gudhjem, where we had free time to wander around, admiring the charming houses, shops, art galleries, and the pretty little harbor. It was all lovely except, I suppose, for the one art gallery that had a handmade sign at the entrance saying, “cruise line pollutors (sic) not welcome.” I was pleased to honor the proprietor’s wishes.
Gudhjem is built on a steep hillside, and our bus had dropped us off at the very bottom along the waterfront. The village’s church was at the top of the hill, suggesting a marvelous view, so up we climbed hoping the effort would prove worthwhile. It was, and we used much of our free time enjoying the views and taking photos.
Returning to the bus, we began our return to Rønne and the ship, which lay directly across the island. The ride took us past pretty woods and some really nice farm fields, plus one fascinating structure. Back in the bad times the Danes built four round forts, armed with cannons, at various locations across the island, and today all four have been converted into churches. It would have been interesting to go inside and have a look, but all we had time for was a slow drive-by so we could take photos from the bus windows.
And that was it for our day on Bornholm. I wasn’t sure what to expect from a tiny island in the middle of the Baltic Sea, but I was surprised by how much it had to offer. Perhaps that’s why there are 900,000 visitors here every summer.
Tomorrow we dock in Kiel, Germany, and plan to travel to Lubeck to see the sights in that old city. I’ll be back afterwards with a full report, so stay tuned.
Interesting welcome in the tent that served as a cruise terminal on this small island.
Farming is big on Bornholm. We passed some very nice fields on our way to Hammershus.
Corn and windmills. The wind definitely blows here.
First look at the ruins of Hammershus Castle. It must have been imposing in its day.
Inside the castle.
There are plenty of places to explore.
I wonder what’s through there.
Ooh, what’s that tall building behind Michele?
Yes, that one. I’ll bet the view is great from up there.
I’m going in to find out.
Inside that building. Imagine my disappointment when I realized there’s no way up.
The view from the outer walls is great though.
A view looking back toward the visitors center. We walked up from down there.
Looking down at picnickers below the outer wall. What could possibly go wrong?
The line for ice cream in Sandvig.
The things I do for my readers. 😂🍨
A girl and her ice cream.
Sandvig is a cute little village.
The Sandvig version of rowhouses.
Sandvig has been a fishing village for centuries. The tall chimneys tell you where the fish is smoked.
This sunflower was turned away from the sun. I guess it had had enough for one day.
There were lots of shops, cafes, and galleries in Gudhjem.
This art gallery doesn’t serve our kind.
There are lots of charming homes in Gudhjem too.
It’s easy to see why Gudhjem is popular with tourists.
View of Gudhjem from partway up the hill.
Lots of small pleasure boats in the harbor.
Scot on the rocks. 😀
The church in Gudhjem.
On our way out of Gudhjem we passed this 1893 windmill.
On the way back to Rønne we passed one of the island’s four circular churches, all of which were former forts. The ammunition for the cannons was stored in the smaller square building.
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