Ensenada, Mexico, is the northernmost city in what is unofficially known as the Mexican Riviera, and it was the last port of call on the first of four major segments that make up our world cruise. Tomorrow we’ll be in Los Angeles for the kickoff of segment two, which will take us out across the Pacific and ultimately the Indian Ocean, but more on that in a few days, because today was about Ensenada, the second busiest port in Mexico.
Ensenada is a city of 279,000 people, and while tourism is important here, it doesn’t assault your senses the moment you step ashore like it does in Cabo. The port area is primarily commercial, and there’s no one on the pier hawking souvenirs, pharmaceuticals and whatever, though that would come later.
As usual Michele and I had booked an excursion, and today’s had only two stops, but they were both interesting. Our bus left the pier promptly at noon and a few minutes later we were at Bar Andaluz, which is part of a larger complex, but I don’t want to get ahead of myself. First about Bar Andaluz, which is not just any bar, for it is the location where the margarita was invented in 1948. The bartender is said to have named the cocktail after the bar’s owner, who he was apparently “sweet” on (sorry). Of course it was mandatory to have one while we were there, and in keeping with my musical tastes I labeled the experience my Parrothead Pilgrimage.
As mentioned, the bar is part of a much larger complex and, drink in hand, we were then shepherded into a large room with a central dance floor, where we were entertained by a traditional Mexican band and pair of dancers. It was all excellent, but I commend to your attention the photo below that shows the male dancer showing off his moves while twirling a pair of machetes and balancing a bottle of booze on his head. Happily, no injuries were sustained and no alcohol was lost, so his performance was a major success.
After the highly enjoyable music and dancing we boarded the bus for the hour long ride out of the city to the featured stop of the day, La Bufadora. La Bufadora is a natural treasure, and depending on the source, is one of only three giant blowholes in the world, the other two being in Australia and Hawaii. It is located in a narrow slit along high cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean, and if I’ve got this right the waves force air into an underground cavern, where it builds up until the water recedes, releasing the air and spray suddenly and violently into the air. Accompanied by a thunderous whoosh, the spray rises up to a hundred feet into the air in a spectacular display, to the delight of crowds of spectators who wait patiently for the big event. I say they wait patiently because there’s no way to tell when the next geyser-like eruption of spray will take place. In our case we did a good bit of waiting, but were ultimately rewarded.
Then it was back to the bus for the ride back to the ship, but I would be remiss if I didn’t describe the scene that awaits you when you get off the bus at La Bufadora. The parking lot is a good quarter mile from the blowhole, and that quarter mile is about as intense a tourist gauntlet as I have ever seen. By the time we were walking back to the bus it had quieted down some, but on our way to the blowhole we were aggressively solicited from both sides by vendors hawking everything from souvenirs to churros and tacos, and from pharmaceuticals to tequila and mezcal. I should say something about the mezcal, which can be made from any species of agave, while tequila comes only from one specific species, the blue agave. What made this mezcal interesting is that it was being sold in bottles that also contained large scorpions. Now maybe that’s not especially unusual, but I can tell you that I’ve never seen that before. And no, I didn’t try or buy any.
That’s a wrap for this post. I’ll be back after we leave Los Angeles with another update. Until then, buenos noches from the Serenade of the Seas.
If you can read Spanish you know that I took this photo at the bar where the margarita was invented in 1948. The original Margaritaville!
The bartender at Bar Andaluz was serving up margaritas for us. Small ones though, as it was still early on our day’s excursion.
Work, work, work. The things I do for my readers. The margaritas at Bar Andaluz are just fine, thank you.
Then it was down the hall to watch a traditional Mexican performance of music, singing and dancing.
The dancers changed costumes three or four times during their performance. They were excellent.
Their costumes were very colorful.
Dancing, twirling two machetes, and balancing a bottle of booze on his head. Impressive.
Speaking of booze, vendors at La Bufadora were peddling bottles of mezcal containing large scorpions. Allegedly the scorpions are edible. No, thank you.
On to the main attraction. This is La Bufadora, a narrow slit in the cliffs along the Pacific Ocean. We waited patiently at the top hoping to see one of its famous geysers.
Here comes one now, with a thunderous whoosh.
At its peak the spray climbs one hundred feet into the air. It’s really something to see.
These visitors saw a good one.
Waiting for the next geyser. There’s no telling when it will come. You just have to be patient.
By the time I took this photo the gauntlet of vendors had thinned out a bit, but you have to walk through a quarter mile of this to get from the parking lot to La Bufadora.
Everything you never knew you wanted can be found in these stalls.
It’s worth pointing out that the scenery around La Bufadora is spectacular.
We saw this cool cactus on the way out and I had to take a photo.
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