I’m in love. From the moment I looked outside when we anchored just offshore until we tendered back to the ship late in the day, I was never once disappointed by anything we saw or did on Mo’orea. Most of us, myself included, have a mental image of what the islands of French Polynesia are like—swaying palm trees ringing uncrowded white sand beaches, with jagged emerald peaks as a backdrop, lush tropical vegetation, thatched roof huts perched over the turquoise water, and locals who enjoy a laid back lifestyle. Mo’orea is all of that and more.
Mo’orea is a small island, so close to Tahiti, its larger and more well known neighbor, that a flight from one to the other only takes seven minutes, and the continuously operating ferry whisks passengers across in just half an hour. In every other aspect though, the two islands are as far apart as the earth is from the moon. More on that tomorrow.
Mo’orea has a population of less than 18,000 souls, spread pretty evenly around the island’s gorgeous coastline. It would be difficult to live anywhere else, as except for the collapsed crater of an ancient volcano in the island’s center, all but the coastline is covered by rugged, lush green peaks. There is only one nicely maintained two lane road that circles the island, and seven small villages along the way where you might find a gas station, a tiny store or two, and may a couple places to get something to eat. A trip around Mo’orea by car can be made in less than half a day, even with a few stops.
That is not to say that Mo’orea is lacking in creature comforts. There are several top rated beach resorts, and most of them have first class restaurants on site. Most of the resorts aren’t visible from the road, with guests’ privacy protected by high fences and lush growth, but we did get a look at four star-rated Sofitel from an overlook, and all I can say is that the five star Hilton must be incredible.
In keeping with its remote feel, there is no dock on Mo’orea capable of accepting large ships, so after breakfast we tendered ashore on one of the ship’s lifeboats to meet our guide for the day’s excursion, which consisted of a lap around the island, plus a side trip up to the volcano crater. Our first stop was at the Tiki Village Cultural Center, a lovely, casual beachfront complex including a restaurant, performance area, and small museum displaying reproductions of many of Paul Gauguin’s famous works. As it was Sunday there was no performance, but we were offered local refreshments, and I thoroughly enjoyed wandering around the grounds and taking in the beautiful views and lush flora.
All too soon we were back on the bus and off to our next stop, an overlook where we got a birds eye view of the Sofitel’s spectacular thatched roof rooms, extending out over the aquamarine Pacific on two long boardwalks. I can state emphatically that this is one case where the travel brochures don’t lie. I can only imagine how wonderful it must be to spend a week or two there. Get out your wallet, though, if you want to go. Our guide told us that rooms at the Sofitel start at $1200 a night in the high season, and at $1000 a night during the low season (now). The rest of the view wasn’t bad either, with white sand beaches reaching out into the sea, and the island of Tahiti in the background. At some point I intend to say, and I might as well say it now—it is almost impossible to take a bad photo on Mo’orea. It’s that beautiful.
Reluctantly boarding the bus, we putted along admiring the views before stopping at a small gift shop, one of the few that was open on Sunday. It was a nice pit stop, and I enjoyed poking around examining the local crafts and souvenirs, though I resisted the urge to buy anything. Even here, though, the views outside were wonderful. The beach was just across the road, as it is almost all the way around the island, and the mountains behind the shop were eye catching. Like I said, no bad views anywhere, even at a gift shop.
Our final stop was up and into the crater of the ancient volcano that formed much of what the island is today. Mount Tohivea is extinct, fortunately, but at 3960 feet of elevation its lookout provides yet another spectacular view. The dead end road up is really the only road of any consequence besides the one circling the island, and climbing it in a full sized bus is an exhilarating experience. It is narrow, steep and winding, with one blind corner after another. Our driver, whose testosterone level was matched only by his skill, negotiated almost all of them without backing up, and more than once I was sure our front wheels were going over the edge. Nevertheless, he clearly knew his stuff, and honking the horn as we approached each blind corner to warn oncoming traffic, he got us safely to the overlook. It was worth it. The view down to the ocean is breathtaking, but so are the mountains on either side.
This completed our trip around the island, and after a fifteen minute tender ride back to the ship we grabbed a late lunch, freshened up a bit, and tendered back ashore. Despite it being a Sunday, the event of a cruise ship docking had brought out a large number of vendors on the pier, and fortified by lunch we now had the time to browse their wares. Pearls are everywhere in Polynesia, as are pāreus, the Tahitian version of a sarong. Of course there were tee shirts and the other usual souvenirs, but we were taken by a local artist who was selling signed prints of her beautiful watercolors of the gorgeous Mo’orean scenery. We had a lovely chat with her and bought one to take home with us.
We also went out to the road, and by that I mean the one road that circles the island, and walked around a bit. However, the post office and few small stores within walking distance were mostly closed, so after stretching our legs a bit we went back next to the pier, where there was, naturally, a beach. Michele waded out into the water, and we just hung out for a while, savoring our visit to this Polynesian paradise.
At last we boarded the tender for the ride back to the ship, and this time we sat up on top, where we could enjoy a final look at this little publicized and much underrated island. French Polynesia consists of more than a hundred islands, spread out over two thousand square kilometers. If you told me to pick one where I would settle, I don’t need to see the rest. Mo’orea would be just fine with me.
Tomorrow we visit Tahiti, the capital of French Polynesia, and by reputation the island nation’s crown jewel. Can’t wait. Back with a full report afterwards. Until then, nana, the Tahitian word for goodbye.
Our first stop was at the Tiki Village Cultural Center, where we were greeted by a Mo’orean in traditional garb who entertained us with his drum and block of wood. Surprisingly pleasant.
On the site there was a display of reproductions of Paul Gauguin’s famous works which were painted here and on a couple other Polynesian islands.
In Tahitian, Mo’orea means yellow lizard. They are seldom seen, but I was lucky enough to spot one on the side of a building at the Cultural Center.
The grounds at the Cultural Center were beautiful. The stones behind me are a spot where the original Polynesians held various ceremonies.
Michele and I took a selfie there.
Another shot at the Cultural Center.
I wonder if I could figure out how to live on this boat.
The beach at the Cultural Center. Gorgeous.
Michele took this photo from the bus window on the way to our next stop.
Another shot from the bus window, this one of a Mo’orean ceremonial site.
One more shot out the window. Even after a torrential downpour the scenery is amazing.
As usual I was drawn to try the local foods and beverages. The Tahitian beer is very good.
Even the scenery at the roadside gift shop was beautiful, with a beach across the road and mountains behind. You honestly can’t take a bad photo here.
That is the Sofitel down there. Four stars, and I’d give it five just for the view. Right out of a travel brochure.
Can’t think of a better place to take a photo of Michele.
On to the volcano crater. What a view.
Another view from the crater lookout.
This is the ferry thathat runs all day back and forth to Tahiti. Mo’orea is remote, but islanders can easily drive their cars onto the ferry and be in Tahiti in less than half an hour. Anything you could want or need is available there.
From the tender on our way backs to the ship for lunch.
Another shot from the tender.
One more.
Back on Mo’orea. We bought a watercolor print from this artist.
On the beach next to the pier.
Michele with the ship in the background.
Final shot from the ship as we were leaving. Mo’orea truly isis a paradise.
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