Today marked our second port stop in Chile, with visits to two neighboring cities that share a section of Pacific coastline in north central Chile. Coquimbo and La Serena are medium sized, adjoining cities, each with a population of about 250,000, but that’s where the similarities end. As we quickly learned, they couldn’t be more different.
Coquimbo has a fine harbor, where we docked at its long pier early this morning. Our cruise ship looked out of place, though, among the large cranes, containers, trucks and heavy machinery that are the hallmarks of a busy industrial port. Indeed, maritime trade and fishing are important elements of this blue collar city’s economy.
At first glance the city also reminded me of Valparaiso, as both are built on the hillsides that rise abruptly from the coast. However, much as with Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro, my eyes were quickly drawn to the top of the highest hill overlooking the city, where the tallest monument in South America stands guard. The Third Millennium Cross is 272 feet tall, more than 100 feet taller than the Statue of Liberty, and only 33 feet shorter than Lady Liberty if you add her base, so believe me when I say this is a really tall cross. Interestingly, another hill overlooking the city is topped by the minaret of a mosque that was jointly financed by the city and the Kingdom of Morocco.
Still, there isn’t much of interest to the casual tourist in Coquimbo, and after a quick stop at a local bay our tour bus headed north to La Serena. Here the beaches, shops and walkability of the city stood in contrast to Coquimbo, and it was easy to see why this is the tourist destination of the two.
Our first stop in La Serena was at its ornate lighthouse, which serves no function and never did. Rather, a former president of Chile who was from La Serena used taxpayer dollars to bestow it on the city to help boost tourism. Apparently it worked, because the lighthouse remains a popular attraction.
Next we spent some time wandering around in La Recova, another warren of small craft stalls where you could buy anything from chintzy souvenirs to handmade wool sweaters and ponchos. We didn’t buy anything of consequence here, though I did crack open a souvenir can of Coca Cola Ultimate, which is Coke enhanced by some mysterious flavor called +xp. My judgment: don’t bother.
We then went downtown and strolled around the city’s very walkable streets, examining (what else) churches, monuments and parks, before heading back to Coquimbo. Instead of boarding the ship, though, Michele and I walked over to the nearby fish market, which also houses craft stalls and small restaurants. Again, we didn’t buy anything, but we took a lot of photos, and I was glad we deferred our return to the ship.
It’s worth mentioning that this region is vulnerable to major earthquakes. In 2015 a quake measuring 8.3 on the Richter scale occurred offshore, and the resulting tsunami hit Coquimbo with fifteen foot waves, causing considerable damage and loss of life. The waves also damaged the iconic lighthouse in La Serena, though there was no sign of it when we visited today. Hopefully it will be a long time before they experience another one.
At 4:30 sharp we weighed anchor and headed north toward Arica, our final port of call in Chile. Given the distance, we won’t get there until Friday, so tomorrow’s a sea day. I’m looking forward to making some progress on my book, and I’m scheduled for my first onboard haircut since we left Miami on December 10. I doubt there will be much to report tomorrow, so I’ll be back on Friday post-Arica.
And as usual, my photos tell the story far better than my words, so have a gander below. See you in a couple days.
The massive cross overlooking Coquimbo is the tallest monument in South America.
while not as tall as the cross, the minaret on the mosque that overlooks Coquimbo from a neighboring hill is also impressive.
As you could see from the above photos, much of Coquimbo is built into the sides of the surrounding hills. Coquimbo is not the first city where we saw painted steps, as Valparaiso had them too. I think they’re a great idea.
More painted steps.
Outside the fish market, which is right along the shoreline in Coquimbo.
Inside the fish market. Don’t ask me to identify any of the fish. I haven’t a clue.
One more shot from inside the fish market. There were also many craft stalls in a different section of the market.
While Coquimbo isn’t particularly touristy, there are several pirate ships like this one that run fun cruises in the harbor.
On to La Serena. This is the iconic lighthouse that wasn’t needed, doesn’t function, and never did. It is a major tourist attraction, and an example of the kind of municipal windfall that can occur when the president is from your town.
Jorge Antonio, our guide, was very demonstrative. Here he’s explaining some statues along the bay between Coquimbo and La Serena.
I have officially forgotten who this statue honors, but it was clearly someone important
The real photographer in the family, getting it right.
Attractive courtyard in front of one of La Serena’s many churches.
Inside the church.
Another church. La Serena is home to many beautiful churches.
Inside the craft market in La Serena. You could find anything from exquisite hand woven alpaca sweaters to cheesy souvenirs here. Quite a place.
Another image from the craft market. There were dozens of stalls and booths here, no two the same.
What is that stuff in the gold can? Turns out it’s Coke Zero (sin azucar-no sugar), sort of. It has some mysterious flavor additive called +xp, and it comes in a limited edition League of Legends (whatever that is) can. I wasn’t impressed with +xp, and the can is in the trash can in our stateroom. If you’re a Coke can collector, lemme know and I’ll bring it home for you, but speak quickly. The trash goes out in the morning.
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