If you read yesterday’s blog post, you know that we spent last night sailing around in circles after we left Montevideo so that we wouldn’t arrive in Buenos Aires before our scheduled docking time this morning. I’m happy to report that we successfully made it back out to international waters, where we were able to reopen the ship’s bars, shops and casino (none of which I patronized), no doubt offsetting the required fuel expenditure and avoiding an extra day’s docking fee in Buenos Aires.
So, with all that behind us, we docked in Argentina’s capital city early this morning, and Michele and I set out on a bus tour of the city. Buenos Aires is a big city, with a population of more than three million, and it was certainly bustling this morning. The large commercial port was easily the busiest we’ve seen so far, the city traffic was heavy, and there were people out everywhere. Like Montevideo, the older architecture of many of the buildings adds to the city’s character, and many of the streets are heavily tree lined, adding warmth. Sycamore trees, in particular, are everywhere.
Our first stop on a hot, sunny summer morning was at Plaza de Mayo, the city’s large central plaza, in many ways similar to the one in Montevideo. In the center is a large monument dedicated to May 25, 1810, the date that Argentinians began their fight for independence from Spain. However, the square is dominated by Casa Rosada, the Pink House, or presidential palace, now office, which borders the Plaza on the east. One look (see photo below) and you will see how it got its name. Eva Peron gave her famous speech from one of its balconies in 1951, reenacted by Madonna on the same balcony for the movie Evita in 1996.
We had quite a while to walk around the plaza and admire other important buildings, including a handsome cathedral and the national bank, and then it was off to the Evita Museum, which occupies a gorgeous old former residence and is dedicated to Eva Peron’s short life—she died in 1952 at the age of 33—and efforts on behalf of women and working people. I found it interesting and I came away impressed that she was much more than an actress and First Lady.
Our final destination is a must-see on every travel guide that covers Buenos Aires, and I’m pretty sure you’ve never seen another cemetery like La Recoleta. I certainly haven’t, anyway. A cemetery is a must-see? Really? Yes, really. La Recoleta is a collection of 4500 mausoleums, every one different, every one interesting, and many downright extraordinary. Each one is owned by a family, and many house famous people including presidents, Nobel Prize winners, military leaders, and most famously, Eva Peron.
There are no restrictions on architecture, so they’re of every style imaginable. Also, some are quite old while others are surprisingly new, considering the fact that the cemetery has been full for many years. The reason some are new and modern is that families are required to maintain their mausoleums, and the annual assessments are very high. If a family fails to pay their loved ones are evicted and the mausoleum is put up for sale, with the new owners free to demolish the old one and replace it with whatever they want (though they can keep the old one if they like). The place is amazing, and you could spend hours there. We were there a little less than an hour, and I enjoyed every minute. I’ll try to show you why it’s so extraordinary, though I’m afraid my photos can’t do it justice.
After our cemetery visit we headed back to the ship to eat, get a little rest, and get our thoughts down on the blog (me) and Facebook (Michele). I think Michele’s Facebook posts are terrific, and she can do videos, which my blog doesn’t allow. We’re here overnight, and have a totally different tour booked tomorrow, so look for round two of Buenos Aires tomorrow evening. Until then, buenas noches from Argentina, the tenth country we’ve visited on our big adventure.
This monument dominates the center of the Plaza de Mayo, the city’s central square. It commemorates May 25, 1810, the date Argentinians began their fight for independence from Spain.
Behind me are the Argentine flag and a statue of General Manuel Belgrano, one of the country’s founding fathers, who designed the flag of Argentina in 1812. In the background you can see the 1810 monument. I’m facing the Pink House, which you’ll see in the next photo.
The Casa Rosada, or Pink House, which once served as the presidential palace, but is now presidential offices. Eva Peron gave her famous speech from the balcony on the left in 1951, the year before she died.
The Plaza and buildings around it really are eye catching. It’s an impressive place.
On our way to our next stop. Cafe Tortoni is a famous coffee shop in Buenos Aires. I would guess the line outside was 100 feet long when we drove by around mid morning. Argentinians love their coffee, and it must be really good here.
Outside the Eva Peron museum. I wasn’t sure about this one in advance, but I’m really glad we visited it. The Perons are a big part of Argentina’s history.
The first thing you see when you enter the museum is these portraits of Juan and Eva Peron. The lobby is one of only three rooms where photos are permitted.
Michele listening to our excellent guide, who played it straight in discussing the Perons. We got both the positive and the negative, and left with a richly improved understanding of an important period in Argentina’s history.
Many of the streets in Buenos Aires are tree lined, adding a feeling of warmth that’s missing in many cities. Sycamores were common and offered a lot of shade, which we appreciated on a hot summer day.
Michele taking photos at the incredible La Recoleta cemetery. Look at what you see here and try to wrap your head around a collection of 4500 mausoleums, all different. I’ve never seen anything like it.
Another photo of a couple mausoleums. The family that owns one can and often does inter several family members in their mausoleum. However, they must pay the stiff annual maintenance fee or they will lose their ownership, their family members will be evicted, and the mausoleum put up for sale.
Eva Peron’s resting place. Her family name was Duarte, and a number of family members are interred there.
General Pablo Riccheri, another of Argentina’s military heroes, is buried here.
As I said, no two mausoleums are the same. I found this one particularly interesting because it’s so different.
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