Greetings from a city so overrun with tourists that the natives have taken to squirting them with water pistols. I’m certainly not a fan of that tactic, especially if they’re aiming at me, but it does raise a legitimate question. Every city we’ve visited in the Mediterranean this summer has been absolutely packed with tourists, to the point that I can’t imagine how local residents can live anything resembling a normal life.
From Bar Harbor to Key West, some US port cities are beginning to limit the number and size of cruise ships that can arrive daily, and perhaps that will be part of the answer in Mediterranean Europe, though I doubt it would noticeably reduce the number of visitors who want to see Antoni Gaudi’s Barcelona church.
Well, maybe a little, because Gaudi’s basilica was in fact our destination today, along with other works by the great master. Antoni Gaudi was a Barcelona architect and designer who lived from 1852 to 1926, and whose modernist works were unique, even among modernists. His greatest work was the Sagrada Família, a church (now a basilica) here in downtown Barcelona.
Incredibly, nearly one hundred years after Gaudi’s death the church remains unfinished, though construction is ongoing and has been overseen by a number of architects over the years. We were here ten years ago and had a brief look at the exterior on a walking tour of the city, but this time I was hoping for a more detailed view of both the interior and exterior, plus a description of what has been accomplished since our previous visit.
It was obvious from our first sight of the church that construction is indeed ongoing, as a giant crane was visible towering over the multiple spires. In fact, it’s the main, highest spire that is the current focus, and we were told that it should be finished by the end of 2025, including a large cross on the tippy top. And, assuming that there are no further Covid-like interruptions, the entire cathedral should be completed within ten years. Maybe I’ll come back then to see the finished product.
I’ll let my photos do most of the talking, but I’ll say this much. The exterior is incredibly elaborate, and every figure and element are symbolic. It would take a month with a scholarly text to truly understand and make sense of it all. The interior is cavernous, not what I really expected, and is open all the way to the ceiling. The pale, almost bland stonework is offset by dazzling colored stained glass windows, and the overall effect is surprisingly coherent, at least to me. The altar is relatively simple, yet (again, my opinion) truly stunning, with much credit to the lighting. Enough from me. Opinions on the church are all over the place, and not everyone is a fan, so look at my photos and decide for yourself.
Our next stop on our tour of Gaudi’s Barcelona works was at Casa Milà, the last private residence designed by the famous architect. With its wavy lines and wrought iron balcony railings it is certainly distinctive, and like the church its appeal isn’t universal. It was controversial when it was constructed, and to a degree remains so today.
I was especially excited to see our final Gaudi work of the day, Casa Batlló, which was a remodel of an existing house. In this case, remodel is quite an understatement, because the result is unlike anything else in the world. I’ve seen photos of the exterior, but like the basilica you really have to see it in person to appreciate how truly incredible it is. And unlike Casa Milà, the result is utterly charming, like something out of a fairy tale. I loved it.
Casa Batlló is located on the Mansana de la Discòrdia, or “block of discord,” a row of four buildings by Barcelona modernists. The buildings have no common theme, and nothing ties them together other than their proximity to each other and the broad brush of Castillian modernism. They’re all interesting though, and collectively they’ve turned the block into quite a tourist attraction. We didn’t have time to examine the other three like we did Casa Batlló, but I did sneak away from the group long enough for a quick glance.
I know you’ve been wondering (you haven’t, of course, but I’m going to pretend you have) if the word gaudy, which means extravagantly bright or showy, was added to the dictionary thanks to Gaudi. Nope, gaudy’s origin predates Gaudi by more than a millennium, being a derivative of the Latin word gaudium, meaning joy. Maybe it was the other way around though. Something to ponder when you run out of useful things to think about.
A final word on the master who designed these amazing works. Antoni Gaudi is often associated with modernism, but in my opinion that’s pounding a square peg into a round hole. Gaudi belongs in a category of one, all to himself. Call it Gaudiism if you like. His works are whimsical and preposterous, yet utterly compelling and stunningly beautiful. Come see them if you get the chance.
Speaking of seeing them, a final word on tourism in Barcelona, and something to think about if you’re considering a visit. The primary problem isn’t with cruise ships at all, and that’s not what was upsetting the protesters. Rather, the problem is with short term rentals of homes and apartments to tourists, a practice that has driven rents up and made longer term leases for residents unaffordable and virtually impossible to find. Local government officials have promised to address the problem, and it will be interesting to see what they do.
That’s all for now. Tomorrow we’re in Valencia, and to be honest I’ve been so busy that I can’t even remember what we’ve booked to see and do. Check back tomorrow—we can all be surprised together. 😀
First look at Sagrada Família, Gaudi’s still unfinished church.
Closeup of a small portion of the exterior. Now perhaps you can see why it would take so long to understand and appreciate the symbolism of every element.
I remember this tree from my visit ten years ago. I still haven’t researched what it represents.
Note the distinct change in the color of the stone being used in the more recent construction. That was intentional, and is intended to brighten the look of the church.
Work is underway on the central, tallest spire, which will be capped by a large cross. The spire should be done by the end of 2025.
A view of the exterior from outside one of the side doors.
Another exterior closeup.
33 in every direction. Bonus points if you know the significance of the number 33 without needing to look it up.
Inside the church. The altar isn’t large given the size of the church, but the lighting creates a stunning effect.
Another look at the altar.
From farther back. The interior goes unimpeded all the way to the roof, which is supported by massive stone columns.
My favorite feature was the ceiling.
The stained glass is amazing, just amazing.
On one side of the church the stained glass is primarily blue and green, while on the other side it is…
…mostly red and yellow. Together they create quite an effect.
Looking toward the back of the church on the red/yellow side.
One more shot of the blue/green stained glass windows.
Quite a spiral staircase in the back.
On our way down the street we passed Casa de Les Punxes, ano Modernist work, though notnot by Gaudi. There are quite a number of modernist works by various architects in Barcelona.
Casa Milà, Gaudi’s last design of a private home. What do you think?
Michele outside Casa Milà.
Gaudi’s famous Casa Batlló.
A closer up view.
The other three buildings on the street are also wonderful modernist structures. I wish we’d had more time.
Window closeup on the next door building. Gotta look into who designed this one. I liked it.
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