June 11, 2024–Tenerife, Canary Islands (Day One)

Hola, and greetings from Santa Cruz de Tenerife, one of the two capitals of the Canary Islands, the small, autonomously governed Spanish archipelago roughly seventy miles off the west coast of Africa. Wait, these little islands, home to just two million people, have two capitals? Yep, and it doesn’t take a political genius to figure out why. There are only two cities of any significance on the eight “main” (populated) islands that make up the Canaries: Santa Cruz on Tenerife and Las Palmas on Gran Canaria. The two cities are barely an eighty minute ferry ride apart, but they are both capitals because creating two separate provinces and making each a capital was politically easier than choosing one city over the other as the islands’ administrative center.

So here we are in Santa Cruz, proud capital city of Tenerife, and it is lovely. The old part of the city is right off the pier, and it is both charming and walkable. Numerous shops and restaurants line the streets and pedestrian walkways, and there are several small plazas, a couple beautiful old churches, and the iconic Royal Poinciana or Flamboyant trees that are hard to look away from with their vivid red flowers. The weather is beautiful here all year around, and I have to say that the British snowbirds who winter here in large numbers may have put one over on their American counterparts who flee to Florida and Arizona. I’m not kidding, either. This place is really nice.

The mountains behind the city are beautiful, and tomorrow we may get to see more of them, but today was all about exploring Santa Cruz. We opted to take a walking tour of the city, which began right on the pier a little before 10:00 am, and in short order we were visiting our first landmark , the Castillo de San Cristóbal.

The Castillo, or castle, was an old Spanish fortification that played a significant role in the history of the Canaries, because it was here in 1797 that the Spanish repelled an attempted invasion by the British, and put an exclamation point on their victory by shooting off the arm of Britain’s greatest naval hero, Lord Horatio Nelson. History tells us that the injury was caused by a musket ball, and the Castillo prominently displays Cañón Tigre, a giant cannon that the Spanish claim did the damage. What I found interesting about the Castillo is that the remains of the fort are underground, suggesting that the land now between it and the pier has probably all been reclaimed from the sea.

Our walking tour also took us to two beautiful old churches, the Iglesia de San Francisco and the Iglesia de la Concepcion. Unfortunately, photography is not permitted inside either church, which I understand but regret, because they are both special. The Iglesia de San Francisco, especially, is breathtakingly beautiful inside, and a must-see if you ever visit Tenerife.

The other really neat stop on our tour was the Casa del Carnaval, or Carnival House. After Rio, Santa Cruz hosts the world’s largest carnival, and the Carnival House is a fantastic little museum dedicated to preserving the event’s history. The costume displays are amazing, and in the back there are even costumes that visitors can try on just for the fun of it. While we didn’t fully dress up, Michele and I both had fun trying on some of the colorful hats. Admission to both of the museums we visited is free, and both are well worth your time if you’re ever here.

After some additional sightseeing our final stop on the walking tour was at a small cafe, where we sat outside and enjoyed some tapas and a lovely Spanish wine. The cafe was on one of the several pedestrian-only walkways, making it a great spot for both eating and people watching.

After our light meal our guide led us to the city’s main shopping street (pedestrian only, of course), and turned us loose to return to the ship or stay in town and explore on our own. Our first order of business was to buy a postcard to send home and mail it at the nearby post office, after which we enjoyed wandering around and poking our heads in several shops. Eventually, a little leg weary, we called it an afternoon and walked back to the ship.

We’re here overnight, and tomorrow we plan to get out and see more of the island. If the rest of it is as nice as Santa Cruz I may be tempted to look into joining the Brits who snowbird here in the winter. Today’s high was in the 70s, with a nice breeze, and it’s supposed to be like this year around. Tempting, isn’t it?

Stay tuned, because I’ll be back tomorrow night with a report on our excursion to see more of Tenerife. Until then, buenas noches.

Just off the pier. Cross this street and you’re in the city. That’s the Tenerife government building in the background.

Just across the street from the pier. Note the mountains in the background. Very scenic.

Lots of statues and memorials in Santa Cruz. This one honors war dead.

I included this photo because the top of the Innside Hotel is a swimming pool that hangs out over the building.

Remains of the Castillo de San Cristóbol. The museum is underground because at the time of the great battle with the English the water came up to the fort.

This is the famous Cañón Tigre, the Tiger Cannon that shot off Horatio Nelson’s arm.

One of the many pedestrian walkways in Santa Cruz. The city is very walkable.

Outside of the Iglesia de San Francisco. Photography wasn’t allowed inside, but it is stunning. A must-see if you’re ever here.

Seems like everyone’s holding elections this year. In case you missed it, there was a big election on June 9 to choose members to the European Union Parliament. The Canary Islands are part of Spain, and thus part of the EU. Euros spend just fine here.

Another statue, surrounded by flowers, a common sight in Santa Cruz.

Another common sight, a shop lined pedestrian walkway.

Never found out what this archway and tower were, but I thought they made for a nice photograph.

Walking around in Santa Cruz is a little like walking in a park.

In the Casa del Carnaval, or Carnival House. The exhibits were a lot of fun.

Another exhibit. Most of the women’s costumes were pretty skimpy.

This one was pretty elaborate, though.

You could even try on carnival costumes at the museum. I loved the hat but it wasn’t for sale.

Michele looked great in this one.

Another cool statue.

This is the spectacular Flamboyant tree. They were all over the place in the old part of the city.

Bell tower of the Iglesia de la Concepcion, another beautiful church.

There’s a tram that runs up and down the hill. The city rises gradually as it moves away from the water. It’s an easy walk, but the tram is a nice alternative.

Another statue.

Closeup of the flowers on the Flamboyant tree. Gorgeous.

I wonder what the Peanuts folks would think of “Snuupy.”

Michele filling out a postcard to mail home. She hasn’t missed a country yet.

My Scouting friends will like this. The city has a row of monuments honoring famous people who visited Santa Cruz. Baden-Powell was the founder of the Boy Scouts.

Sailing vessels along the pier. Santa Cruz is a very pretty city.