Greetings from Gibraltar. Unless I’m mistaken The Rock may be the first place we’ve been on this trip where we can see three countries from one spot. We’re in the United Kingdom, and Spain is so close across the harbor that I can watch Spanish cars driving along the breakwater. Morocco, meanwhile, is only 7.7 nautical miles away according to Professor Google, though the view is not quite as crisp through the summer haze. Jebel Musa, the Moroccan mountain we can see, and Gibraltar together make up the fabled Pillars of Hercules that straddle the Strait.
Today is a special day, because with our arrival in Gibraltar we’ve now visited all seven continents, something I never imagined I would do, especially in a single journey. It’s been quite an experience, and though we still have 88 days to go, Europe makes it feel a little like we’re entering the home stretch. These final three months will be very port-intensive, with relatively few sea days, so it will be challenging to keep up with the blog, but I’ll do my best.
But back to Gibraltar, which is a very cool place, and very British. One of the first things you notice here is that it’s hard to find a square inch that isn’t being fully utilized. This tiny spit of land, most of which is an uninhabitable rock, is home to 34,000 people, many of whom necessarily live in the high rises that give Gibraltar a big city feel. The whole enclave covers only three square miles, so do the math and you come up with a pretty high population density.
We started our day with an excursion that took us around many of the highlights, starting with Europa Point, Gibraltar’s southernmost point. The lighthouse here dates back to 1841, and is an iconic and very functional landmark. Also prominent at Europa Point is the King Fahd bin Abdulaziz Al-Saud Mosque, a much newer gift from King Fahd of Saudi Arabia that was dedicated in 1997.
One other landmark struck me at Europa Point. The Sikorski Memorial commemorates the 1943 crash of a B-24 bomber which killed Wladyslaw Sikorski, head of the Polish Army and prime minister of the World War II Polish government-in-exile. According to our guide there’s a lot of speculation over the cause of the crash, which occurred only seconds after takeoff from Gibraltar, but no hard evidence exists one way or another. One of the propellers of the aircraft was recovered and features prominently in the memorial.
Europa Point sits at the base of the Rock, and it was a good stop, but now it was time to climb. Fortunately we had a minibus to do the climbing up the steep, narrow, twisting road that took us to the entrance of St. Michael’s Cave. Gibraltar has miles of man made tunnels constructed over the centuries for military purposes, but many people aren’t aware that it also contains a large natural cavern. I’ve been in a lot of caverns, but I’m still always fascinated by the stalactites, stalagmites, and formations created by dripping, mineral laden water over the millennia. Multicolored lights are used to highlight the formations, and one chamber is so large that a 400 seat amphitheater has been constructed in it.
We didn’t stay in the cavern long enough to watch one of the light shows that play regularly in the amphitheater, mostly because we wanted to get back outside and see one of Gibraltar’s other famous attractions, its macaque monkeys. Gibraltar is home to around 300 of the large monkeys, which were brought over from North Africa centuries ago, and they frequent the area around the cave entrance. No doubt they do so because many tourists feed them, despite the admonition not to do so. Still, they’re mostly well behaved, and we were able to get close enough to admire them and get a few photos before it was time to head back down the mountain.
Because of its location guarding the entrance to the Mediterranean Sea, Gibraltar has been used as a fortress for more than a thousand years, and the city, foothills and Rock itself are covered with battlements constructed over the centuries. It’s actually hard to find a spot anywhere from which you can’t see something that was of military significance at one time or another. On our rides up and down the mountain we saw everything from tunnel entrances to gun placements, stone walls, and even iron rings projecting out of the stone that were used in hauling heavy artillery up the mountain. Today, fortunately, none of that is necessary, though the Royal Navy still maintains an active base here, and the Spanish continue to assert their claim to Gibraltar.
Once back down the mountain our guide took us on a short spin around the city, which included a drive past the border crossing with Spain, a crossing of the new tunnel under the airport runway (the road actually used to cross the runway), and ending at the entrance to the old city, where he dropped us off to conclude the excursion. This was intentional, because the old city is a must-see on foot, and is an easy walk back to the pier and the ship.
The old city is entered through an archway that was, yes, part of an old battlement, which then opens up into to a small plaza. Crossing the plaza brought us to a long pedestrian street lined with shops of all kinds, along with restaurants, pubs, souvenir stands, and even a couple traditional red British phone booths. Somehow the narrow street managed to feel touristy and old English at the same time. It was also busy, and ideal for just people watching if one was so inclined. We window shopped for several blocks along the gently upward sloping street, stopping to admire the Cathedral of St. Mary the Crowned, and eventually turning around when we reached the King’s Chapel and Governor’s Residence.
All aboard time on the ship was a relatively early 2:30 pm, due to our need to get moving towards our next port of call, and with a half hour walk ahead of us to reach the pier, we decided to call it a day. We did a little more window shopping on the way back, took a few photos, and easily beat the deadline after what we both agreed was an excellent day in Gibraltar.
As I write this we’re on our way across the Mediterranean, bound for the Greek island of Corfu, where on Monday we’ll catch up with the original itinerary that had us transiting the Suez Canal. While it was disappointing to miss the Valley of the Kings, the Pyramids, Petra and Istanbul, our African detour was amazing and a once in a lifetime experience. We’ll spend the next two months exploring Europe, and I’ll be here to report on all of it, same bat time, same bat channel, so stay tuned.
The iconic lighthouse at Europa Point, the southernmost point in Gibraltar.
The Mosque at Europa Point. Note the wall with holes for cannons in the background. Gibraltar’s long military history is evident wherever you look.
Same image from farther away, with the Rock in the background.
The Sikorski Memorial at Europa Point. Lots of intrigue and speculation about what brought down the plane carrying the head of the Polish government in exile just sixteen seconds after takeoff from Gibraltar in 1943.
On to St. Michael’s Cave, a beautiful natural cavern inside the Rock of Gibraltar.
This chamber is so large that it has room for a 400 seat amphitheater where light shows play regularly.
Lots of macaque monkeys around St. Michael’s Cave, probably because the tourists can’t resist feeding them. Gotta admit, they’re pretty cool.
Another macaque. Legend has it that if the macaques ever leave Gibraltar, so will the British. That’s why Winston Churchill imported more from North Africa after World War II, when the population had dwindled to seven. There are 300 now.
One more macaque photo, because it’s adorable and I couldn’t resist.
I’m sure it says something troubling about my sense of humor, but I think this is great.
View from partway up the Rock. No way you could have gotten me into that cable car. That’s our ship down below, and Spain in the background.
This is the view of the Rock that everyone recognizes from the Prudential commercials.
Downtown Gibraltar. This monument honors all those who defended the Rock during wartime.
Main Street in the old city is a must-see. Great shopping, eating, drinking and people watching.
And can there be anything more British than this mail drop?
Yes, actually there can. How about this old phone booth.
Michele tried it out too.
Look closely at the road sign. Of course I had to explore Bomb House Lane.
The Cathedral of St. Mary the Crowned is very nice, and worth stopping by on your way up Main Street.
On our way back down Main Street. Just in case you can’t remember which country controls Gibraltar.
Walking back to the ship we passed this monument memorializing the evacuation of civilians from Gibraltar during World War II.
Back on the pier. You’re welcome, Gibraltar. We enjoyed our visit.
This is Jebel Musa in Morocco, clearly visible from Gibraltar and just 7.7 nautical miles away across the Strait. Together, Gibraltar and Jebel Musa are believed to be the legendary Pillars of Hercules.
A final view of Gibraltar as we sailed away. You can see the lighthouse and mosque on Europa Point in the foreground.
Sunset over the Mediterranean, with Spain on the right.
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