Greetings from Trieste, a city like no other in Italy, as locals will be quick to tell you. Trieste is unique because until 1918, at the end of World War I, it wasn’t even Italian, but was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. But as they say, winners keep and losers weep, and Italy was on the winning side in the Great War. Austria-Hungary not only lost, but ended up dissolving, and Trieste became one of the spoils of war.
The result is that today Trieste is a multicultural melting pot, with Italian, Austrian and Slovenian (the next door neighbor to the south) influences all present. The city’s architecture, in particular, is more Central European than Italian, and monuments to Hapsburg royalty like Empress Maria Teresa and Archduke Maximillian I are prominently located downtown.
The city center starts right at the pier, so we were able to begin our walking tour directly after disembarking, which was a pleasant change after our last two days of long bus rides to reach our destinations. Our tour took us primarily through the old town, which featured numerous outdoor cafes and elegant older buildings, which combined to create an appealing aura, busy yet comfortable. Old churches and Roman archeological sites mixed in with ornate commercial buildings, small residences on narrow hillside streets, and grand government offices in a large central plaza to create a delightful smorgasbord, with something new and interesting around every corner.
We visited several churches, but the two that most interested me were polar opposites of each other. The first was a smallish stone structure, plain on the inside almost to the point of being spartan. This was the Basilica di Cristo Salvatore detta di san Silvestro, the oldest church in Trieste. The Basilica started life as a Catholic Church, but pursuant to a 1786 Freedom License issued by the Hapsburgs it became Swiss Protestant. I found the plainness and complete lack of distractions, with a pure focus on worship, very appealing.
The other church that struck me was the Greek Orthodox Church of Saint Nicholas. I have been in a lot of ornate churches, but this one takes ornate to a whole new level. It is absolutely stunning, and I was blown away by its beauty. I would have loved to stay longer to take it all in, but a few minutes had to suffice. Two totally different churches, and I loved them both.
Our walking tour included a much appreciated break at Antico Ristorante Tommaseo, the city’s oldest coffee shop. There, in addition to a needed escape from the heat and humidity, we were served a delicious chocolate pastry smothered in whipped cream, along with a locally brewed coffee topped with milk foam and a shot glass of melted chocolate. Talk about a caffeine and sugar boost.
We did some more walking afterwards, which included a tour of the tiny Jewish ghetto, before finishing at the town center, the large waterfront Piazza Unità d’Italia. This large open plaza is dominated by elegant government buildings, the grandest of all being the city administration building. While we were there grandstands were being erected for a scheduled visit by Pope Francis in two weeks.
That was the end of our tour, but with several hours left before we had to be back on the ship, Michele and I decided to do some more walking. The Catholic Cathedral of San Giusto and the city’s old fort are side by side at the top of the hill above the city, and since we hadn’t done any hill climbing since yesterday in San Marino, we located what was possibly the steepest street in town and pointed our noses upward.
We’re in pretty good shape from all the climbing we’ve been doing, so we reached the top without any difficulty, other than being soaking wet from the humidity. And actually there wasn’t that much to show for our efforts. We couldn’t enter the Cathedral, as a wedding was just concluding and the newlyweds and guests were spilling out as we arrived. And maybe we’re becoming fort snobs, but after yesterday in San Marino the hilltop fort in Trieste looked pretty small, so we didn’t go in. Still, there was a nice view of the city below, and an impressive memorial to Trieste’s World War I dead behind the Cathedral.
There was one more benefit to our climb. We chose another route back down to the city center, and it proved to be a marvelous choice. A narrow flight of stairs led to another, which led to small, sidewalk-sized “streets,” which just kept twisting and turning down the hill, until we finally popped out in recognized territory near the oldest church. It couldn’t have been more fun.
With that we finished our walk back down the hill, through the Piazza, and back to the ship. That was plenty for me, and I was happy to call it a day. However, Michele was more ambitious, and after a late lunch she headed back out to the nearby Museo Revoltella to see the traveling Van Gogh exhibit. I know she enjoyed it but you’ll have to read her Facebook post if you want any more detail than that.
Tomorrow we’re in Kotor, Slovenia, and we have another big day planned, so watch for the notice on Facebook, because I’ll be back with a full report. Ciao, ciao for now.
The old fish market, right off the pier. Neat old building.
Museo Revoltello, where Michele saw the Van Gogh exhibit.
One of the Hapsburg royals. This is Archduke Maximillian I, who was briefly the Emperor of Mexico before being shot by the Mexicans at age 35.
The doors on the old buildings are wonderful.
On our walking tour. I loved the old streets.
Archeological dig at the site of the old Roman forum.
The fruit looked really good.
Some of the streets in the old town were even narrower than this.
Basilica di Cristo Salvatore detta di san Silvestro, the oldest church in Trieste, originally Catholic, but now Swiss Protestant.
Inside the Basilica. Plain, yet in a way powerful.
Old Roman arch, preserved and connected to the newer building.
Contrast with the interior of the Greek Orthodox Church. Magnificent.
Common street scene. Europeans love their outdoor cafes.
Michele with a well known and beloved local poet. I would like to have known him.
The old Roman theater.
I liked this building.
The US and Britain ran Trieste as a free city for several years after World War II before returning it to Italy in 1954. Obviously someone wants us back.
Our fantastic snack break at Trieste’s oldest coffee shop.
The Catholic Cathedral at the top of the hill. We couldn’t enter because of the wedding. You can just see the bride on the left of the photo.
View of Trieste from the top of the hill.
Climbing the steps to view the memorial to Trieste’s World War I war dead. The old fort is in the background.
Back down the hill. Michele and I at the old Roman theater.
Memorial to Empress Maria Teresa of Austria-Hungary, who remains very popular here. I have an ancestor who was named after her.
The impressive town hall dominates the main central plaza.
Fountain in the main plaza. Pope Francis will be here in two weeks.
Sailing out we passed this magnificent three masted yacht in the harbor. It belongs to a Russian oligarch, but was seized by the Italians pursuant to the European Union sanctions against Russia due to its invasion of Ukraine.
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