Another hot, sunny day, and we can relate to the heat wave affecting much of the US. Today was the first of three days in Croatia, which has a long coastline on the Adriatic Sea, and we scheduled a walking tour of Zadar, specifically its old walled city. These old walled cities we’ve been visiting are charming, but you do start to ponder the reasons these cities all have walls around them.
Zadar has a natural harbor, protected by more than a thousand islands that make up its archipelago. Only 66 of them are populated, and it would probably be fun to take a small boat and explore some of the others, but we had a different mission today. Michele had been here two years ago, and it was her description of the old city that sealed the deal for me.
It was a ten minute shuttle ride from the pier to the old city, and we were dropped off next to the one thing that I most wanted to see. Unless I’m mistaken, Zadar has the world’s only sea organ, and it is truly extraordinary. 35 submerged organ pipes catch the waves from the sea and use them to make sounds that come up through holes in the concrete along the water’s edge, creating a random and always changing symphony. It’s not much to look at, because other than the holes in the concrete there’s nothing to see, but the effect is magical. People gather here in the evening to listen and watch the sun set over the Adriatic.
From the sea organ it was a short walk to an area dominated by old churches. In close proximity are the Church of St. Mary, which has an attached monastery and museum, the Cathedral of Santa Anastasia, and the Church of St. Donatus. We could also see the tower of the Serbian Orthodox Church. As it was Sunday morning, we couldn’t enter all of them, but they were all interesting architecturally.
The Cathedral was consecrated all the way back in 1185, more than 300 years before Columbus set sail for the New World. We weren’t able to enter due to Sunday mass, but were able to enjoy the exterior and the detached bell tower. The bell tower is impressive, and I was struck by the fact that its lower floors and upper floors were constructed several hundred years apart.
Next to the bell tower is the Church of St. Donatus, which we were able to enter. The building is not currently serving as a church, but is being used for community events and concerts, due to its acoustics. It’s quite an unusual structure for a church, and we enjoyed walking around both the main floor and a mezzanine several floors above.
The museum at the Church of St. Mary’s monastery was a highlight for me. The museum houses an extraordinary collection of very old gold crosses, busts, arms with hands pointed upward, paintings on canvas and wood, and marble sculptures. Unfortunately, photos were not permitted, and we were always under the watchful eyes of the nuns, but trust me when I say the collection is remarkable, and a must-see if you are ever in Zadar.
That concluded the formal walking tour, but there was more to see than churches in the old city, so we made our way down yet another of the delightful narrow streets that we’ve encountered since we got to Europe, ultimately popping out at the Five Wells. The wells are so named because there are five of them in a row, and they are where citizens of the walled city came to get water back in the days when venturing outside the walls may not have been possible. They’re not much to look at, but they are historically significant.
Nearby is a great overlook from the top of the city wall down to the harbor and Porta Terraferma, the Landward Gate, one of the old entrances to the walled city. Today cars drive through it, and it took me a while to get a photo that didn’t include a vehicle coming through the Gate. It was worth the wait, and it’s a pretty spot to loiter in the shade anyway.
It was also here that we bumped into four friends from the ship who were also walking around on their own, and we decided to go on as a group for a bit. After some meandering we alit at one of the many outdoor cafes, where we sat in the shade, ordered cold drinks, and watched people go by. As is my custom at times like this, I ordered a local beer, which I declared excellent, mostly because it was cold on a very hot, humid day.
After refreshing ourselves we decided to go our separate ways, and Michele and I did some window shopping on our way back to the sea organ, where the shuttle bus back to the ship was waiting. The incoming waves were bigger than they had been earlier in the morning, and the organ was a good deal louder than before. What an inventive creation, and I loved it.
We were able to get a seat on the shuttle, and in no time at all were back on the ship after what we agreed was a great visit to Zadar. We have two more ports of call in Croatia, Split tomorrow and Dubrovnik on Tuesday. Then it’s on to Montenegro, our third and final visit to a former member of the Yugoslavian Federation. I’ll be back to report on all of it, so stay tuned.
First stop, the sea organ. Not much to see, is there?
The organ pipes push the sound out through these rectangular holes in the concrete, as well as the round ones just above (look closely). The effect is amazing.
First look at the old city. That’s the church of St. Donatus in the foreground, and the Cathedral bell tower behind it. I told you these churches were close together.
The Church of St. Mary. Its attached nunnery and museum holds a jaw dropping collection of artifacts. A must-see.
Closer view of the Church of St. Donatus and the Cathedral bell tower. In the foreground are the excavated ruins of the old Roman forum. Quite a spot.
The Cathedral of St. Anastasia. Wish we could have gone in.
Closeup of the Cathedral door.
The cafe culture is strong in Europe.
I liked this shot of the bell tower.
The Romans built this column, which was later repurposed. Look closely and just above the white cross you can see a small metal rod sticking out. Offenders were chained here and displayed for public viewing and humiliation. To this day the locals call it the column of shame.
Michele heading down one of the narrow, cafe-lined streets.
This dreadful example of Soviet era architecture from the Yugoslavia days sticks out like a sore thumb in the old city.
I took this photo of a sand sculpture on the floor of the Church of St. Donatus from the mezzanine. It’s a neat old building.
Michele leading the way down another old street.
I was ahead this time. These old streets are wonderful.
One more. Lots of souvenir shops along with the cafes and restaurants.
You can walk on the glass beside Michele and look down at Roman ruins. The old city wall is in the background.
The Five Wells. Yep, I counted them and there are definitely five wells.
Looking down at the Five Wells from this lovely shaded spot.
And just beyond that shaded spot is this view of the Landward Gate. The winged lion over the arch was the symbol of Venice. The Venetians were running the city at the time.
These flowers were on one of the trees that provided that glorious shade near the Landward Gate overlook.
A cafe, an old Roman column, and the bell tower of the Serbian Orthodox Church. Quite a combination.
Michele on another narrow, curving street.
We finally succumbed to the cafe culture. My friend Denny and I were wondering why it took us so long.
The local beer was pretty good.
On our way back to the shuttle. This is Treasury of St. Elijah the Prophet in People’s Square.
We passed one last church on our way back. This is the Church of Our Lady of Health.
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