After a restful day at sea yesterday, today found us docked in Malta, the world’s tenth smallest nation by area. Between Malta’s two populated islands—Malta and smaller Gozo—a little over half a million people live here, the majority of them on Malta in the urban environs around Valletta, the capital. Despite its apparent size Valletta is tiny, because officially the capital is only the portion of the city inside the old city walls, where a mere 5137 people reside according to a recent census.
We got a good look at the capital, because we docked directly beneath its high walls. In fact, Valletta is so much higher than the port facilities that the city installed an elevator that whisks cruise passengers topside for the modest fee of one euro. However, our tour today did not include yet another European walled city, but rather took us out and about to see some of the island.
The first of the three stops on our tour took us across the island to the opposite shore, which only took 30 minutes and included a tunnel crossing of the airport’s main runway. My observation was that it is sunny, hot, dry, and rocky here, and almost all of the buildings match the soil’s sandy, tan coloring, giving Malta a desert-like feel. That tan coloring was in dramatic contrast to the colors we saw at that first stop, the Blue Grotto.
The Blue Grotto is a series six sea caves on Malta’s southeast coast where the water is an astonishing shade of electric blue. To see this natural wonder we walked down to the shoreline from the parking lot and lined up to pay ten euros apiece for a ticket that bought us a seat in a small, nine passenger motorboat. The pilot didn’t waste any time, and as soon as nine of us were on board we were off on a round trip that lasted well under half an hour.
Happily, the seas were almost glassy smooth, and in no time at all we were approaching the first of the six sea caves, which I would have enjoyed exploring even if there was nothing special about them. But they are special, and as we motored from one to the next we were treated to the most vividly blue water I have ever seen. The water is very clear, and the cobalt blue coloration is the result of either underwater flora, minerals, or reflected sunlight, depending on which website you research. The truth is that I didn’t much care what caused the phenomenon. It was great, and it was fun to be out on the water in a small boat on a beautiful, sunny day. If you’re ever in Malta, do this. It’s totally worth the ten euros.
From the Blue Grotto it was a short ride to Haġar Qim and Mnajdra Archeological Park, where we were introduced to the remarkable sight of what may be the world’s oldest free standing building. The stone structure is more than a thousand years older than Stonehenge and the Pyramids of Giza, and like Stonehenge it has astrological significance. A hole in one of the stones illuminated the then-roofed temple on the summer solstice, and provided similarly significant effects on the spring and autumn equinoxes. The structure is covered by a large, permanent tent to prevent erosion from wind and spray from the nearby Mediterranean Sea, and has a walkway through the middle of it, giving visitors a closeup look at five thousand year old workmanship by people who had no metal tools or even a written language. Statues unearthed at the site appear to suggest that the temple was associated with worship to a god of fertility. The site was fascinating, and until today I had no idea it existed.
We had one more stop on the day’s excursion, and it was down on the far southeastern tip of the island at the fishing village of Marsaxlokk. The village is wrapped around a pretty little harbor filled with brightly painted fishing boats, which the fishermen believe helps attract fish. Many of the boats also have eyes painted or attached on the bow, which they believe protects them from wind and waves. However, my observation was that the fish being most often caught in Marsaxlokk are tourists. The waterfront promenade was lined with souvenir stands and restaurants, and they were all packed with people like us. Did we do our little part to aid the local economy? Yes indeed, and cheerfully so.
Afterwards it was back on the bus for the thirty minute return trip to the pier. One of the great things about Malta is that it’s so small that everything you want to see and do is only a short drive away. On the other hand, on days like today when there are four cruise ships in port, those things you want to see and do may be pretty busy. Want that great photo of the old church with no one standing in front of it? Good luck. Still, no complaints here. We had a great time today and saw some really interesting sights. Like I said above, it’s hot and sunny here, but if you’re okay with that I’d rate Malta as a pretty neat place to visit.
Tomorrow we’re in Siracusa (Syracuse), on Sicily, an island I’ve always wanted to visit. I’ll be back with a full report, and since we’ll be back in Italy, I’ll be able to say ciao at the end again. Stay tuned.
On our way to the Blue Grotto. There’s a very old watchtower above the cliffs. We aren’t even there yet, but notice how blue the water is.
Approaching the caves. There are six of them altogether.
Inside one of the caves. Now that’s blue.
Check out the great arch.
In some spots the minerals on the bottom produced several colors.
They call this the window.
Inside another cave.
Our boat looked just like this one.
I loved this one.
Starting to head back.
Not a bad swimming hole. The water here is very clear.
This is what a lot of the countryside looks like.
At the Haġar Qim & Mnajdra Archeological Park. The ancient temple is covered by a permanent dome-like tent to protect it from the elements.
The entrance to the temple. The stone on the left is the largest in the structure and weighs 20 tons.
An interior passageway.
This is believed to be an altar.
Pedestal’s. Female fertility statues were found near them.
The hole in the wall was located to illuminate the chamber on the summer equinox.
Closeup of the hole.
The temple is very near the sea, and there’s a little island just offshore.
The fishing village of Marsaxlokk is very picturesque.
As you might imagine, Maltese crosses are everywhere on the island. This one was painted on a garage door.
There’s a beautiful old church just a block from the water.
Most of the fishing boats are brightly painted, and many have eyes on the bow. The eyes are supposed to offer protection from wind and waves.
The waterfront promenade is lined with souvenir stands and cafes.
They take the risk of tsunamis seriously.
Sailing out. The wall of the old city could use some repairs in this spot. Most of it looked to be in very good condition.
This fort is directly across the narrow harbor from the old city of Valletta.
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