Cape Town was the third of our three ports of call in South Africa, and today’s excursion put an exclamation point on a great visit to Africa’s southernmost country.
It was nine full hours of “wow,” and the hits started before we even left the ship. Before I report on our day though, a word or two about the city is in order.
Cape Town is known as South Africa’s “mother city,” due to its role as the first location settled by colonizing Europeans, and you have to wonder what the descendants of the indigenous peoples they displaced think about that moniker. It’s a big city, South Africa’s second largest, with a population nearing five million counting its suburbs. Its importance to the colonizing Dutch, and later the English, who ousted the Dutch, is obvious, as Cape Town’s excellent harbor provided a way station for trading ships sailing back and forth between Europe and the Far East.
The city is at the northern end of the peninsula that leads down to the Cape of Good Hope, Africa’s southwestern most point, and it was to that landmark that today’s tour took us. Even before our excursion though, “wow” moment number one came before we left the ship, in the form of mighty Table Mountain. Photos can give you an idea, but this massive flat topped rock, which overlooks the city, has to be seen to be believed. Unfortunately, a photo is the best I can do, but take my word for it, Table Mountain is breathtaking.
Our tour bus left the pier at 8:00 am on a sparkling, sunny day, and our drive out of the city took us past a number of interesting places, including the soccer stadium where several of the 2010 World Cup matches were played. However, our goals for the day were more along the category of natural wonders, and we didn’t have long to wait for them to appear. Just outside the city we stopped in Clifton to admire the Twelve Apostles, a series of twelve jagged peaks (there are actually eighteen, but who’s counting) extending southward from Table Mountain. However many there actually are, they were certainly impressive, as was the view of the ocean crashing against the boulders along the shore in nearby Clifton.
Continuing south, we pulled off a second time near Hout Bay to view the narrow bay and look across at the high peak on the far side known as the Sentinel. According to our guide the Dutch used the peak as a natural watchtower to spot ships on the horizon. There’s no need for that now, and today there is more interest in the colony of Cape fur seals that live just off the point on a low outcropping of rocks known as Seal Island. While we were watching we saw a tour boat making its way out of the bay toward the island, giving the seals an opportunity to contribute to the local economy.
Back on the bus, we drove through Hout Bay and continued south down the peninsula, connecting with Chapman’s Bay Drive, which became a toll road shortly thereafter. The toll was worth paying, because it gave us entrance to a narrow, winding section of highway perched high on the cliffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. The views were spectacular, but there was nothing remotely resembling a place where we could pull off to admire them, so we had to settle for taking some photos out the bus windows.
Dropping down off the cliffside, we maintained our course, always southward, toward the Cape of Good Hope, passing through Table Mountain National Park and eventually to Cape Point Nature Reserve, where we had to pony up another toll to go on. This southern section of the Cape peninsula is more open and rolling, with lots of endemic low scrub, much of it rare, but very few trees. The terrain looks windblown, and I wouldn’t describe it as hospitable, though we saw ostriches, and Michele saw an eland. Very cool.
Ultimately we reached one of our big goals for the day, the Cape Point Lighthouse. The lighthouse is situated at a key geological location, separating False Bay, a cruel body of water that fooled many westbound sailors in days past, from the true spot which, when rounded, would lead up the west coast of Africa and on to Europe.
As you might imagine, the lighthouse is perched high on the peak overlooking the Cape of Good Hope, but even after arriving you have to work to get there. In our case that meant buying a ticket (if you’re keeping score, that’s two tolls and a ticket so far) and riding up the funicular from the parking lot, which took us most of the way to the top. From there it was still several more flights of irregular stone steps to the lighthouse, but it was worth it. Admiring the view of the Atlantic Ocean from the lighthouse brought on another of those, “pinch me,” moments, as until recently I never would have believed that someday I’d be standing high on a peak on the southern tip of Africa.
There’s one more thing we had to do, though. The lighthouse isn’t at the exact southwestern tip of Africa, but it’s nearby, and you can’t come all this way without visiting it, so after a ride back down the funicular and a quick bus ride we found ourselves down along the rocky shoreline at the spot marked as the Cape of Good Hope. It’s mostly a “check the box” thing, as there isn’t much to see, but we did the touristy thing and had our photos taken at the sign marking the latitude and longitude.
We had traveled down the west side of the Cape peninsula to reach the Cape of Good Hope, and our return took us up the east side along the coast of False Bay to Boulders Beach, where we had lunch at the Seaforth Restaurant, a lovely eatery right on the beach. The meal was delicious, the staff was accommodating, and the views from the deck where our tables were located weren’t bad either. We even saw whales tail slapping out in the bay. But the food, location and whales weren’t even the best part.
No, the best thing about the Seaforth Restaurant is that it’s walking distance from the beach where a colony of endangered African penguins make their home. From the restaurant it wasn’t more than a tenth of a mile to the entrance, and tickets in hand (that’s two tolls and two tickets) we passed through to the boardwalk that leads down to the beach and provides a nice viewing area, while also preventing people from getting closer than they should.
African penguins are a unique species, though you have to look closely to see the only unique feature that was obvious to my uneducated eye. It’s over the eye that sets these penguins apart, as they have a pink area there that almost looks like a pink eyebrow. It’s hard to see it from a distance, but from up close it’s pretty obvious. The colony included several young penguins still in their baby fuzz, something I don’t recall seeing before. Interestingly, these otherwise charming creatures are often referred to locally as jackass penguins because of the loud braying noise the males make. A few of them did perform for us, and I must say it’s an apt description. We stayed for quite a while, and I especially delighted in watching some of them walk briskly across the sand. Our weather luck held up too, and the bright sunshine was in the right spot in the sky for taking good photos and videos.
Eventually we tore ourselves away and walked back to the bus, for we still had one more stop to make on our full day. As I said, our route back to Cape Town took us up the east side of the Cape peninsula, which brought us to the suburbs on the back side of Table Mountain. There, pretty much directly across the mountain from our ship, we arrived at Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden.
Kirstenbosch is an internationally acclaimed botanical reserve dedicated to preserving South Africa’s indigenous plants. We were running behind schedule and only had half an hour to circle the main path through the grounds, which was disappointing, as it was obvious that half a day here probably wouldn’t be enough. Still, after obtaining tickets (two tolls, three tickets) we saw some unique and beautiful plants and flowers, and even our brief stop was more than worthwhile.
One last bus ride completed our day long trek down the Cape peninsula and circling of Table Mountain, and we arrived back at the pier a little after 5:00 pm. The South African immigration process in the terminal went fairly quickly, and we were on the ship before 5:30, the end of a long and very full day.
I really liked what I saw of South Africa during our four days here. It’s a beautiful country, though one with a lot of problems clearly connected to the tragic legacy of apartheid. Hopefully they’ll find a way to overcome them. There’s a national election on the 29th that may provide some answers as to the direction the government may take in addressing those challenges.
Meanwhile, we’re off to Namibia tonight. Tomorrow is a sea day, and we’ll arrive in Luderitz on Wednesday, the 29th. Where has May gone? Namibia has an interesting history of its own, and I’m looking forward to visiting the former German colony and South African protectorate. Stay tuned.
One of the first things we saw on our way out of town was the stadium where many of the 2010 World Cup soccer matches were played. Anyone remember the constant noise from the vuvuzelas? I never saw a single one for sale in any of the three ports we visited in South Africa.
Another shot from the bus window as we left Cape Town. Pretty coastline with crashing waves.
At our first stop. Vendors offering their wares were a common sight at any place that visitors were likely to stop.
At the same stop, near aptly named Clifton.
This is Clifton, with several of the Apostles standing guard above. Don’t ask me which Apostle is which. 😀
Closeup of one of the Apostles. Look closely and you’ll see a cable car station at the top.
Back on the bus. This is why the town was named Clifton. Can you see the car on the road? It helps put the magnitude of the cliffs in perspective.
Our second stop was at the mouth of Hout Bay, where we could look across at the Sentinel. The Dutch used to station lookouts on top to watch for incoming ships.
On to the Cape of Good Hope. This is the funicular that will take us most of the way up to the lighthouse.
This was taken most of the way up the steps you have to climb AFTER you get off the funicular. Trust me, it’s worth it.
Gorgeous view. The scenery isn’t bad either.
From the same spot, but I added it because quite by accident I caught the image of a green bird with black wings flying over the water along the cliffside. It’s pretty far away, and so far I haven’t been able to identify it.
At the top. The Cape Point Lighthouse.
Someone is pumped that we made it.
I was pretty happy too.
Back down at the bottom it was a short bus ride to the Cape of Good Hope, where tourists line up to have their photos taken at the sign. See any tourists in this photo? 😀
There are wild ostriches roaming around at the Cape. This gray one is a female. Males are black and white.
After lunch at a seaside restaurant in Boulders Beach we made the short walk to a nearby beach that endangered African penguins call home.
African penguins are a unique species. Note the pink area over the eyes. No other penguins have that.
Several of the younger ones still had their baby fur.
like this photo. Beach in the foreground, penguins on the boulders, False Bay in the background, and mountains in the distance.
On our way to the day’s final stop. Ever seen a photo of the back side of Table Mountain? Well now you have. The sun is still pretty high in the sky everywhere but behind the mountain.
At the National Botanical Garden. Our guide is explaining the Garden’s layout.
I’ve never seen a yellow Bird of Paradise before.
It’s moare than just flowers. This is gorgeous.
Helmeted guineafowls roam freely around the Garden.
Bredasdorp Protea. The National flower of South Africa is a close relative, the Giant Protea.
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